Kingsmen Brogue

Favourite Asked Questions

Oxfords first appeared in Scotland and Ireland, where they are occasionally called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle. However, the shoes were later named Oxfords after Oxford University. This shoe style did not appear in North America until the 1800s. In the United States, Oxfords are called “Bal-type” as opposed to “Blucher-type”. In France, Oxfords are known as Richelieu.

Oxfords were derived from the Oxonian, a half-boot with side slits that gained popularity at Oxford University in 1800.Unlike early shoes, Oxfords were cut smaller than the foot. The side slit evolved into a side lace that eventually moved to the instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots. The toe cap can either be lined with two narrow rows of stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching (quarter-brogue), perforated holes along the end cap stitching and on the toe cap (semi-brogue), or a semi-brogue with the classical wingtip design (full-brogue).

The word “brogue” came into English in the late sixteenth century. It comes from the Gaelic bróg (Irish), bròg (Scottish) “shoe”, from the Old Norse “brók” meaning “leg covering”.The Scots word brogue is also used to denote a bradawl or boring tool as well as the action of piercing with such a tool.

The word “brogue” was first used to describe a form of outdoor, country walking shoe in the early twentieth century traditionally worn by men. At that time the brogue was not considered to be appropriate for other occasions, social or business. Over time perceptions have changed and brogues are now considered appropriate in most contexts, including business. 

The word “brogue” came into English in the late sixteenth century. It comes from the Gaelic bróg (Irish), bròg (Scottish) “shoe”, from the Old Norse “brók” meaning “leg covering”.The Scots word brogue is also used to denote a bradawl or boring tool as well as the action of piercing with such a tool.

The word “brogue” was first used to describe a form of outdoor, country walking shoe in the early twentieth century traditionally worn by men. At that time the brogue was not considered to be appropriate for other occasions, social or business. Over time perceptions have changed and brogues are now considered appropriate in most contexts, including business. 

Full brogues (also known as wingtips) are characterised by a pointed toe cap with extensions (wings) that run along both sides of the toe, terminating near the ball of the foot.

Viewed from the top, this toe cap style is “W” shaped and looks similar to a bird with extended wings, explaining the style name “wingtips” that is commonly used in the United States.

The toe cap of a full brogue is both perforated and serrated along its edges and includes additional decorative perforations in the centre of the toe cap.

1)   Hand-Welt or Goodyear-Welt

Invented by Charles Goodyear, this is the most expensive and time-consuming process. It is used by several prestigious shoe brands across the globe. There are four pieces involved here:

  1. a) Upper– top portion of the shoe that highlights the design elements,
  2. b) Insole– inside of the shoe where the foot rests,
  3. c) Outsole–bottom part of the shoe that comes in contact with the ground, and
  4. d) Welt– a piece of leather that is sewn around the edge of an upper, to which the sole is attached.      

There are a number of advantages of a Hand welted/Goodyear welted shoe. Because it has two rows of stitching (one connecting welt to the sole and the other connecting welt to the outsole), they are water resistant. Also, these shoes have replaceable soles, making them extremely durable. Lastly, the cork filling between the insole and the outsole creates a mold of your foot based on your walking patterns, rendering them comfortable.